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Methods & Materials Trial - Toshiba 10.9" Enclosure- July- 2008

10.9 LCD Specifications

Size: 10.9"
Screen Architecture: WXGA (1366 x 768 Pixels)
Contrast Ratio: 600:1
Timing: 25ms full on/off
MST controller Specifications
Video Processor: 9e98
HDMI: 1 Input, Supports 1080p, 1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i
VGA: 1 Input, Support 640x480/800x600/1024x768/1280x720/1280x768/1280x1024/1920x1080
Component: 1 Input, Supports 1080p, 1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i
S-Video: 1 Input, Support 480i
CVBS: 1 Input, Support 480i
TV Tuner: 1 Input, NTSC, PAL
Power: 9V DC

Copyright Notice: @ 2008 Imägo Metrics LLC - Reproduction Granted for Educational Purposes (Non-commercial) Only

Introduction to the Evaluation
This is a documentation of our methods and materials for the fabrication of a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) enclosure for a Toshiba 10.9" High Definition (HD) Field Monitor.
The kit's electronics are sold as integrated components, intended for enclosure by the end user. Since there were no custom fabricated, off-the-shelf (OTS) enclosures available on the market at the time of this trial, we chose to fabricate our own.
Numerous ingenious options have been explored and published on the forums.
In addition, the joint contributions of several forum members have been adopted in the development of successive iterations, including this, our own version.
Where possible, We have cited the contributing forums members' ID's as a courtesy.

Kit components were purchased from an online retailer- . ManhattanLCD, a USA based e-tailer, primarily furnishes these kits for DIY construction of HD projectors. Since the HD video content production business just needs the screen image, projection lenses are omitted from the construction of the field monitors. The cost advantage of assembling a unit from a kit versus purchasing a commercial HD field monitor is the difference between a $2,000 - $3,000 off the shelf monitor or a $375 Do it yourself project and some time. The electronic components of the ManhattanLCD Toshiba 10.9" Kit cost $325.00, and the custom frame and other parts cost around $50. A sizable saving can therefore be realized by building one's own HD field monitor.

The challenges facing the DIY maker of an effective and compact field monitor are as follows:
- Selecting an enclosure that closely fits around the components without restricting airflow or crowding components
- Allowing for easy access to internal parts for servicing or upgrades
- Customized machining of connector portholes
- Easy assembly of enclosure and components
- Durable enclosure construction
- Easy mounting to support system
- No paint required durable finish
- Easily obtainable enclosure parts
- No special tools required for assembly
- Balancing ruggedness with lightness of weight
- Selecting a solution that can be scaled to build a large quantity of cases with minimal ordering or assembly cost
- Lowest possible cost against ease of assembly and quality of results.

Our Innovative Solution
We're familiar with the popular channel molding aluminum section frames made by the Nielsen Company and used by artists for sturdy modern picture framing for decades. After some research we discovered that one of the Nielsen molding profiles matched the form-factor requirements of our project. That molding pattern is Profile P35-20 Anodic Black. The metrics of this molding allowed us to build a frame with dimensions that (with allowance) would yield the maximum image visibility in the most compact form factor. Indeed, the depth of the P35-20 molding allows plenty space for leeway in the assembly process. In addition, the depth ensures that there's plenty of space for wires to bend without placing stress on them. The Nielsen P35-20 frame used in the trial was kindly provided by Frames By Mail an online framing service.

We encountered numerous challenges in our trial build and we've mentioned each with our final solution in the body of the documentation:
- In order to cut individual portholes for each connector, we'd have to construct a precise template of the porthole shapes, sizes and loci in the connector array. Since some of the ports were recessed this required a breakthrough solution.
- Knowing that the Nielsen P35-20 molding has a front bezel or 'lip' that would normally extend over the live edge of the picture area, we had to come up with a formula for calculating the correct molding dimensions coupled with any necessary padding allowance to snugly surround the screen without obscuring the live picture.
- A desirable baseboard to mount the Controller circuitry would have to be thin,lightweight, stiff, drillable and electrically non-conductive
- The connectors would provide sufficient support and positioning at the bottom of the unit, but we had to develop a solution for restraining the edge of the board at the top side of the unit.
- The challenge of finding an external button system for operating the board-mounted tactile push-button switches that operate the physical menu controls was solved by an forum member.
- The power supply has mounting holes in the board, we ignored them and simply taped the board to one inside of the unit.
*Carry Case - WIP

A Pictorial Documentation of the Enclosure Assembly

1) The fully assembled monitor on a light stand. Note the relative size difference comparing the 10.9" screen with the Canon HV20 flip-out screen. Image shown is an actual still frame from HD on tape (Play/Pause).
Monitor is being powered at 9V from a Tekkeon MP3450 Lithium Ion battery pack , mounted in a BEC-TEK-1 battery holder (Under Camera). 24" HDMI cable connects the camera to the monitor.


2) Oblique view shows the complete connection array at the bottom and push-button control console on the right side.

  3) Back-side oblique view

4) Logistics for calculating the correct frame size to accommodate both the frame bezel and the screen dimensions.

NOTE: The exact dimensions of the 'Chops' (glass dimensions) ordered for this screen was : 10-10/16" X6-5/16" closest in metric=269mmW X 160mmH
This required the addition of foam spacers and a trim of the bottom pair of mounting tabs for a perfect fit.


5) Creating the custom connections begins with a 1lb box of Super Sculpey . This is a soft, pliable thermoplastic that is used in art sculpture and crafts.


6) Roll a 'sausage' shape and flatten the top side with a rolling pin. Carefully and slowly plunge the connectors, (Note openings have been taped and stuffed with cotton to prevent clogging with Sculpey). Plunging the connectors deeply, allows for an imprint of all the connectors. Stop plunging once the shallowest connectors have made a faint imprint.

  7) laying a strip of tracing paper on the embossed Sculpey, trace the outlines of each shape carefully.
  8) The tracing compared with the embossed impression.

9) Scanning the tracing

  10) The scanned image is imported into a vector application ( Macromedia/Adobe, Freehand 10) The scan is used on a tracing layer and geometrics are accurately drawn to closely conform to the scanned hand traced template. Note side-by-side comparing the vector drawing with the scanned tracing. Note also a second drawing of the push button console with its labels.

11) A printout of the vectorised connector template is hand cut


12) The cutout printout positioned over the control board, proving that the template is accurate.
Note: numerous adjustments were made to finesse port-hole sizes and positioning. After three adjustments , the template was deemed sufficiently accurate to apply to the frame section for drilling.

CNC Machine removal method is ideal for large production porthole drilling. A drill press is an effective alternative for 'one-off' pieces.
Hint: Center punch and pilot drill all round holes. Square shapes are corner drilled and completely removed with a saw and finished with a a rotary tool such as a Dremel Tool


13) View of the back, showing thin diamond plate aluminum supporting the MST control circuit board.
Note: Four circuit board screws attach the board to the back support. The screw slots allow for exact positioning of the connections against the frame section .


14) Top section removed to show the 'sandwich' layers of cosmetic back plate, control circuit support plate and screen.


15) Detail- showing how corner brackets are tightened to connect the frame corners

  16) Detail- shows screen retainer clips - epoxied in place

17) Detail- shows screen bracket epoxied at a precise distance from front bezel . Note: sanded anodizing to ensure strong bond with epoxy.
Acknowledgement: This brilliant inspiration is credited to an member > Bogdan Adrian Stanescu

Below: 2-part 4 minute epoxy

  18) Screen retainer brackets are pirated from small wall picture frame hangers . Only the elbow is used.

19) Pushbutton console buttons are pirated from small bulletin board pins. Note:Pins and 'caps' are removed.
CAUTION: measure the stem bases carefully and select similarly sized ones . Manufacturing variances can be great in these small pushpins. Shown: Dremel cut-off tool for fast easy trimming.

Acknowledgement: This brilliant inspiration is credited to an member > Bogdan Adrian Stanescu

  20) Materials used include: (Far Right) Black aluminum grating from hardware store. This is used as a cosmetic back layer. (Center) Diamond plate pattern aluminum kitchen counter mat was cut to fit the back of the frame and drilled to support the controller board. Bottom of this plate is an excellent rubber layer that formed an electrically insulating shield between the aluminum and the circuit board.(Left) PVC pocket folder was cut out and used to finesse the connector ports.

Sources: SKU: SM820SWR
8 1/2 x 20 Silver Wave Counter Mat
Non-skid rubber backing prevents countermat from slipping on countertop.
Price: $ 5.99 (online)
Top Row: 4X 6-32X1/2" Stainless steel pan head bolts & nuts used to mount the controller board
Bottom Row: 4X 2-56X1/2" Stainless steel pan head bolts & nuts used to mount the pushbutton console.
  22) Detail shows slotted back panel for MST controller mounting

23) Double sided adhesive foam strip used to mount the power supply to the inside left frame section


24) .25" thick high density foam is cut into4" long strips that were attached with silicone adhesive to the inside of the front bezel.
Note: these strips served to fill the gap between the screen and the inside of the front bezel while at the same time supporting and cushioning the screen's edges where they would otherwise meet with the metal framing.

  25) 3M Super 77 contact spray adhesive was used to attach the PVC connector plate to the frame.
  26) Detail showing the use of a black sharpie, permanent marker to blacken silver corner brackets as well as to touch up anything silver colored, to match the black 35-20 frame molding.

Items of Note

- The Toshiba 10.9" screen has a 5mm thick top edge tapering to a 4mm bottom edge. This is relevant to the distance that retainer clips are glued to the front lip on the top edge, versus the bottom edge of the frame.
- The four mounting tabs that are part of the screen as supplied are kept intact at the top and trimmed at the bottom. This creates a more balanced adjustment for proper mounting inside the enclosure.
- Tape the printed porthole template onto the frame's bottom section for accurate center-punching of the holes.
- Spread a paper thin layer of 100% clear Silicone on the inside of the front bezel to insulate the screen's metal edge from that of the aluminum frame. Allow to dry overnight before handling.
- Wear powder free surgical gloves to protect electrical components from oily fingers and to ensure a responsive grip on materials and tools
- Apply the thin insulating silicone 'caulking' LAST. Silicone has a way of attracting particles and all drilling and sanding should be completed before the silicone caulking is applied to the front edge of the frame.
-When ordering your Nielsen 'chops' from Frames-By-Mail, ask them to include an extra set screw. I lost one of my 8 screws and had to beg one off of a local frame shop. Local hardware stores seem not to stock these special screws. You need all 8 of them or your frame will not hold together properly.


Not Shown:

A 1/4" diameter hole was drilled into the bottom section near the S-Video port to facilitate the mounting of a 1/4X20 taped base connection for support of the finished monitor.


WIP- A Case to carry the finished monitor, support system , battery and cables to the field - well protected from shock and damage.
Current specs and candidates.....

ABOVE: Layout (A) - 20"LX12"WX4"D. This is 960 cubic inches

For (same as camera) tripod mounting:
I really like the Bogen/manfrotto articulating arm set up.I've also attached a cheap Kalt/ Aetna camera quick release to get the monitor on and off the arm quickly. So I clamp the one end of the arm to a tripod leg , roughly position and lock down the arm, attach the monitor via the quick release and then make small adjustments of the monitor positioning and angle.

Parts List:
- 1X Manfrotto 2940 - to attach to the tripod leg or a stand or whatever. $15.95 from B&H
- 1X Bogen / Manfrotto articulating arm 196AB-2 $27.95 from B&H
- 1X Manfrotto 037 Reversible Short Stud, with 3/8" & 1/4"-20 Threads (Brass) $5.95 B&H (This converts the 3/8 female on the one end of MY arm to a 1/4X20 male for attaching the quick release unit. Note: My arm is really old. Newer ones may not require this stud ( ask B&H)
-1 X Brandess Kalt/Aetna Tripod Quick Release Model:NP590TR
$13.99 This makes attachment/detachment of the monitor to the arm or other support- quick, simple and safe!

ABOVE: Layout (B) - 14"LX12"WX7"D (some stacking) This is 1,176 cubic inches

ABOVE: Rough calculations of possible interior dimensions and volumes based on rough layout of the contents.

ABOVE: I eventually settled on my Tom Bihn ID bag.The ID Bag is a great all purpose messenger style bag for a mix of stuff including a laptop. I previously used it to transport a 15" MacBook Pro. The ID Bag is also a great Director's bag, carrying the 10.9" DIY Monitor, support bracket, cables a small slate and custom light shield...with room to spare for a water bottle, small electronics, pens pads and so forth.




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