& Materials Trial - Toshiba 10.9" Enclosure-
10.9 LCD Specifications
Screen Architecture: WXGA (1366
x 768 Pixels)
Contrast Ratio: 600:1
Timing: 25ms full on/off
MST controller Specifications
Video Processor: 9e98
HDMI: 1 Input, Supports 1080p,
1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i
VGA: 1 Input, Support 640x480/800x600/1024x768/1280x720/1280x768/1280x1024/1920x1080
Component: 1 Input, Supports
1080p, 1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i
S-Video: 1 Input, Support 480i
CVBS: 1 Input, Support 480i
TV Tuner: 1 Input, NTSC, PAL
Power: 9V DC
Copyright Notice: @ 2008 Imägo
Metrics LLC - Reproduction Granted for Educational
Purposes (Non-commercial) Only
to the Evaluation
is a documentation of our methods and materials for
the fabrication of a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) enclosure
for a Toshiba 10.9" High Definition (HD)
The kit's electronics are sold as integrated components,
intended for enclosure by the end user. Since there
were no custom fabricated, off-the-shelf (OTS) enclosures
available on the market at the time of this trial,
we chose to fabricate our own.
Numerous ingenious options have been explored and
published on the HV20.com forums.
In addition, the joint contributions of several forum
members have been adopted in the development of successive
iterations, including this, our own version.
Where possible, We have cited the contributing forums
members' ID's as a courtesy.
components were purchased from an online retailer-
ManhattanLCD.com . ManhattanLCD, a USA
based e-tailer, primarily furnishes these kits for
DIY construction of HD projectors. Since the HD video
content production business just needs the screen
image, projection lenses are omitted from the construction
of the field monitors. The cost advantage of assembling
a unit from a kit versus purchasing a commercial HD
field monitor is the difference between a $2,000 -
$3,000 off the shelf monitor or a $375 Do it yourself
project and some time. The electronic components of
the ManhattanLCD Toshiba 10.9" Kit cost $325.00,
and the custom frame and other parts cost around $50.
A sizable saving can therefore be realized by building
one's own HD field monitor.
challenges facing the DIY maker of an effective and
compact field monitor are as follows:
- Selecting an enclosure that closely fits around
the components without restricting airflow or crowding
- Allowing for easy access to internal parts for servicing
- Customized machining of connector portholes
- Easy assembly of enclosure and components
- Durable enclosure construction
- Easy mounting to support system
- No paint required durable finish
- Easily obtainable enclosure parts
- No special tools required for assembly
- Balancing ruggedness with lightness of weight
- Selecting a solution that can be scaled to build
a large quantity of cases with minimal ordering or
- Lowest possible cost against ease of assembly and
quality of results.
familiar with the popular channel molding aluminum
section frames made by the Nielsen Company and used
by artists for sturdy modern picture framing for decades.
After some research we discovered that one of the
Nielsen molding profiles matched the form-factor requirements
of our project. That molding pattern is Profile
P35-20 Anodic Black. The metrics of this
molding allowed us to build a frame with dimensions
that (with allowance) would yield the maximum image
visibility in the most compact form factor. Indeed,
the depth of the P35-20 molding allows plenty space
for leeway in the assembly process. In addition, the
depth ensures that there's plenty of space for wires
to bend without placing stress on them. The Nielsen
P35-20 frame used in the trial was kindly provided
By Mail an online framing service.
encountered numerous challenges in our trial build
and we've mentioned each with our final solution in
the body of the documentation:
- In order to cut individual portholes for each connector,
we'd have to construct a precise template of the porthole
shapes, sizes and loci in the connector array. Since
some of the ports were recessed this required a breakthrough
- Knowing that the Nielsen P35-20 molding has a front
bezel or 'lip' that would normally extend over the
live edge of the picture area, we had to come up with
a formula for calculating the correct molding dimensions
coupled with any necessary padding allowance to snugly
surround the screen without obscuring the live picture.
- A desirable baseboard to mount the Controller circuitry
would have to be thin,lightweight, stiff, drillable
and electrically non-conductive
- The connectors would provide sufficient support
and positioning at the bottom of the unit, but we
had to develop a solution for restraining the edge
of the board at the top side of the unit.
- The challenge of finding an external button system
for operating the board-mounted tactile push-button
switches that operate the physical menu controls was
solved by an HV20.com forum member.
- The power supply has mounting holes in the board,
we ignored them and simply taped the board to one
inside of the unit.
*Carry Case - WIP
Pictorial Documentation of the Enclosure Assembly
The fully assembled monitor on a light stand. Note
the relative size difference comparing the 10.9"
screen with the Canon HV20 flip-out screen. Image
shown is an actual still frame from HD on tape (Play/Pause).
Monitor is being powered at 9V from a Tekkeon
MP3450 Lithium Ion battery pack , mounted in a
battery holder (Under Camera). 24" HDMI cable
connects the camera to the monitor.
Oblique view shows the complete connection array at
the bottom and push-button control console on the
Logistics for calculating the correct frame size to
accommodate both the frame bezel and the screen dimensions.
NOTE: The exact dimensions of
the 'Chops' (glass dimensions) ordered for this screen
was : 10-10/16" X6-5/16" closest in metric=269mmW
This required the addition of foam spacers and a trim
of the bottom pair of mounting tabs for a perfect
Creating the custom connections begins with a 1lb
box of Super Sculpey . This is a soft, pliable thermoplastic
that is used in art sculpture and crafts.
Roll a 'sausage' shape and flatten the top side with
a rolling pin. Carefully and slowly plunge the connectors,
(Note openings have been taped and stuffed with cotton
to prevent clogging with Sculpey). Plunging the connectors
deeply, allows for an imprint of all the connectors.
Stop plunging once the shallowest connectors have
made a faint imprint.
a strip of tracing paper on the embossed Sculpey, trace
the outlines of each shape carefully.
tracing compared with the embossed impression.
Scanning the tracing
scanned image is imported into a vector application
( Macromedia/Adobe, Freehand 10) The scan is used on
a tracing layer and geometrics are accurately drawn
to closely conform to the scanned hand traced template.
Note side-by-side comparing the vector drawing with
the scanned tracing. Note also a second drawing of the
push button console with its labels.
A printout of the vectorised connector template is
The cutout printout positioned over the control board,
proving that the template is accurate.
Note: numerous adjustments were made to finesse port-hole
sizes and positioning. After three adjustments , the
template was deemed sufficiently accurate to apply
to the frame section for drilling.
CNC Machine removal method is ideal for large production
porthole drilling. A drill press is an effective alternative
for 'one-off' pieces.
Hint: Center punch and pilot drill all round holes.
Square shapes are corner drilled and completely removed
with a saw and finished with a a rotary tool such
as a Dremel Tool
View of the back, showing thin diamond plate aluminum
supporting the MST control circuit board.
Note: Four circuit board screws attach the board to
the back support. The screw slots allow for exact
positioning of the connections against the frame section
Top section removed to show the 'sandwich' layers
of cosmetic back plate, control circuit support plate
Detail- showing how corner brackets are tightened
to connect the frame corners
shows screen retainer clips - epoxied in place
Detail- shows screen bracket epoxied at a precise
distance from front bezel . Note: sanded anodizing
to ensure strong bond with epoxy.
Acknowledgement: This brilliant inspiration is credited
to an HV20.com member > Bogdan Adrian Stanescu
Below: 2-part 4 minute epoxy
retainer brackets are pirated from small wall picture
frame hangers . Only the elbow is used.
Pushbutton console buttons are pirated from small
bulletin board pins. Note:Pins and 'caps' are removed.
CAUTION: measure the stem bases carefully and select
similarly sized ones . Manufacturing variances can
be great in these small pushpins. Shown: Dremel cut-off
tool for fast easy trimming.
Acknowledgement: This brilliant inspiration is credited
to an HV20.com member > Bogdan Adrian Stanescu
used include: (Far Right) Black aluminum grating from
hardware store. This is used as a cosmetic back layer.
(Center) Diamond plate pattern aluminum kitchen counter
mat was cut to fit the back of the frame and drilled
to support the controller board. Bottom of this plate
is an excellent rubber layer that formed an electrically
insulating shield between the aluminum and the circuit
board.(Left) PVC pocket folder was cut out and used
to finesse the connector ports.
8 1/2 x 20 Silver Wave Counter Mat
Non-skid rubber backing prevents countermat from slipping
Price: $ 5.99 (online)
Top Row: 4X 6-32X1/2" Stainless steel pan head
bolts & nuts used to mount the controller board
Bottom Row: 4X 2-56X1/2" Stainless steel pan head
bolts & nuts used to mount the pushbutton console.
shows slotted back panel for MST controller mounting
Double sided adhesive foam strip used to mount the
power supply to the inside left frame section
.25" thick high density foam is cut into4"
long strips that were attached with silicone adhesive
to the inside of the front bezel.
Note: these strips served to fill the gap between
the screen and the inside of the front bezel while
at the same time supporting and cushioning the screen's
edges where they would otherwise meet with the metal
Super 77 contact spray adhesive was used to attach the
PVC connector plate to the frame.
showing the use of a black sharpie, permanent marker
to blacken silver corner brackets as well as to touch
up anything silver colored, to match the black 35-20
- The Toshiba 10.9" screen has a 5mm thick top
edge tapering to a 4mm bottom edge. This is relevant
to the distance that retainer clips are glued to the
front lip on the top edge, versus the bottom edge
of the frame.
- The four mounting tabs that are part of the screen
as supplied are kept intact at the top and trimmed
at the bottom. This creates a more balanced adjustment
for proper mounting inside the enclosure.
- Tape the printed porthole template onto the frame's
bottom section for accurate center-punching of the
- Spread a paper thin layer of 100% clear Silicone
on the inside of the front bezel to insulate the screen's
metal edge from that of the aluminum frame. Allow
to dry overnight before handling.
- Wear powder free surgical gloves to protect electrical
components from oily fingers and to ensure a responsive
grip on materials and tools
- Apply the thin insulating silicone 'caulking' LAST.
Silicone has a way of attracting particles and all
drilling and sanding should be completed before the
silicone caulking is applied to the front edge of
-When ordering your Nielsen 'chops' from Frames-By-Mail,
ask them to include an extra set screw. I lost one
of my 8 screws and had to beg one off of a local frame
shop. Local hardware stores seem not to stock these
special screws. You need all 8 of them or your frame
will not hold together properly.
A 1/4" diameter hole was drilled into the bottom
section near the S-Video port to facilitate the mounting
of a 1/4X20 taped base connection for support of the
A Case to carry the finished monitor, support system
, battery and cables to the field - well protected
from shock and damage.
Current specs and candidates.....
ABOVE: Layout (A) - 20"LX12"WX4"D.
This is 960 cubic inches
as camera) tripod mounting:
I really like the Bogen/manfrotto
articulating arm set up.I've also attached a cheap
Kalt/ Aetna camera quick release to get the monitor
on and off the arm quickly. So I clamp the one
end of the arm to a tripod leg , roughly position
and lock down the arm, attach the monitor via
the quick release and then make small adjustments
of the monitor positioning and angle.
- 1X Manfrotto 2940 - to attach to the tripod
leg or a stand or whatever. $15.95 from B&H
- 1X Bogen / Manfrotto articulating arm 196AB-2
$27.95 from B&H
- 1X Manfrotto 037 Reversible Short Stud, with
3/8" & 1/4"-20 Threads (Brass) $5.95
B&H (This converts the 3/8 female on the one
end of MY arm to a 1/4X20 male for attaching the
quick release unit. Note: My arm is really old.
Newer ones may not require this stud ( ask B&H)
-1 X Brandess Kalt/Aetna Tripod Quick Release
$13.99 PennCamera.com This makes attachment/detachment
of the monitor to the arm or other support- quick,
simple and safe!
ABOVE: Layout (B) - 14"LX12"WX7"D (some
stacking) This is 1,176 cubic inches
ABOVE: Rough calculations of possible interior dimensions
and volumes based on rough layout of the contents.
ABOVE: I eventually settled
on my Tom
Bihn ID bag.The ID Bag is a great all purpose
messenger style bag for a mix of stuff including
a laptop. I previously used it to transport a
15" MacBook Pro. The ID Bag is also a great
Director's bag, carrying the 10.9" DIY Monitor,
support bracket, cables a small slate and custom
light shield...with room to spare for a water
bottle, small electronics, pens pads and so forth.
AN ACTIVE THREAD FOR THIS PROJECT IS LOCATED ON HV20.COM
>DIY MONITOR DISCUSSION<
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